Cleaning stainless steel
Cleaning stainless steel, First of all, it must be clear what type of contamination / pollution must be removed. Everything can happen during the process from raw material to recycling, which makes a cleaning operation important.To begin with, contamination / contamination can occur during transport, storage, treatment and processing of the stainless steel. Very well known is contamination with iron and / or rust particles during processing, often from contaminated tools or incorrect storage. In case of incorrect storage, you can think of storage of steel and stainless steel in the same space. What I have also seen were plates of stainless steel stored on the floor with the prints of work shoes on the plates. The problem with these types of contaminants is that they can eventually lead to serious corrosion.
It is best to remove this type of contamination chemically, for example by:
- Pickling and passivation- Electrolytic polishing and
- Electrolytic pickling.
Of these three processes, pickling and passivation are the most commonly applied, more information can be found in the MCB Book (chapter RVS).
So let's assume that products made of stainless steel are put into use with one with a perfect surface. It is then important to look at the application, whereby a distinction can be made between outside and inside.
Cleaning stainless steel: Outdoor applications
'Outdoor applications' refers to stainless steel handles products that are exposed to atmospheric conditions. Pollution that can occur there, besides dust, also consists of soot particles from traffic, salt from, for example, anti-slippery measures or from the coast, iron particles from tram and / or rail. Under these types of conditions, cleaning stainless steel is almost always necessary to prevent corrosion (rusting).Preventing rust is very important, especially for aesthetic applications such as art objects, wall cladding, banisters, etc. Rust can easily form under dirt deposits, so dirt must be removed. This immediately says that stainless steel handles are not maintenance-free, especially in outdoor applications! The degree of maintenance and the frequency are determined, among other things, by:
• Choice of materials (for outdoor applications at least type 316)
• Location (for example close to the coast or inland)
• Surface quality (the smoother the better)
• Nature and degree of pollution.
If the cleaning is carried out with the correct frequency, it is usually sufficient to spray the objects and / or sponge with clean water. Tap water usually suffices excellently, with stubborn dirt a cleaning agent such as an alkaline soft soap can be used.
Professional products are available on the market, for example on the basis of phosphoric acid, for more or less neglected objects with the worst case of rusting. I know from my own experience that excellent results can be achieved. If this does not work either, you will have to resort to pickling. This is possible on location, but is quite drastic.
The most common contamination in the home (think of stainless steel extractor hoods, ovens, microwaves with a stainless steel front, etc.) consists of fingerprints, grease stains, etc. The removal of fingerprints is generally good with a cloth or sponge, soaked in a soap solution. Often a slightly damp microfibre cloth also works well. A glass cleaner can also be used on polished stainless steel, for stubborn dirt a non-abrasive cleaning agent such as CIF can be used.
In addition to these home, garden and kitchen remedies, there are also special stainless steel cleaners for sale, often referred to as 'stainless steel cleaner'. They are available as a spray and as a polishing paste. Most spays contain silicone oil, which leaves a layer that makes cleaning easier. The effect usually disappears after a few weeks and then the stainless steel will have to be treated with the spray again.
Polishing pastes such as Stahlfix leave behind a microscopically thin and very resistant wax layer, which greatly facilitates later maintenance. Because this wax layer is resistant to solvents, they generally last several months.
In addition, avoid contact with chloride-containing liquids such as hypochlorite and thick bleach as much as possible. Chlorides are able to break the passivity of the stainless steel surface and thus cause (pit) corrosion. If these types of agents should still be used, for example in connection with disinfection, keep the contact time as short as possible and rinse thoroughly with water.
• Location (for example close to the coast or inland)
• Surface quality (the smoother the better)
• Nature and degree of pollution.
If the cleaning is carried out with the correct frequency, it is usually sufficient to spray the objects and / or sponge with clean water. Tap water usually suffices excellently, with stubborn dirt a cleaning agent such as an alkaline soft soap can be used.
Professional products are available on the market, for example on the basis of phosphoric acid, for more or less neglected objects with the worst case of rusting. I know from my own experience that excellent results can be achieved. If this does not work either, you will have to resort to pickling. This is possible on location, but is quite drastic.
Cleaning stainless steel: Indoor applications
In this context, you should think of applications in the home for indoor applications. Let's consider stainless steel in swimming pools, for example, that is a different story .The most common contamination in the home (think of stainless steel extractor hoods, ovens, microwaves with a stainless steel front, etc.) consists of fingerprints, grease stains, etc. The removal of fingerprints is generally good with a cloth or sponge, soaked in a soap solution. Often a slightly damp microfibre cloth also works well. A glass cleaner can also be used on polished stainless steel, for stubborn dirt a non-abrasive cleaning agent such as CIF can be used.
In addition to these home, garden and kitchen remedies, there are also special stainless steel cleaners for sale, often referred to as 'stainless steel cleaner'. They are available as a spray and as a polishing paste. Most spays contain silicone oil, which leaves a layer that makes cleaning easier. The effect usually disappears after a few weeks and then the stainless steel will have to be treated with the spray again.
Polishing pastes such as Stahlfix leave behind a microscopically thin and very resistant wax layer, which greatly facilitates later maintenance. Because this wax layer is resistant to solvents, they generally last several months.
In addition, avoid contact with chloride-containing liquids such as hypochlorite and thick bleach as much as possible. Chlorides are able to break the passivity of the stainless steel surface and thus cause (pit) corrosion. If these types of agents should still be used, for example in connection with disinfection, keep the contact time as short as possible and rinse thoroughly with water.
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